It is now, in deepest autumn, that the markets, allotments and food shops are at their most tempting. Everything from the last tomatoes and soft fruits to the first of the crisp winter roots is available, a delicious crossover of seasons. And it is now, rather than high summer, when there is a true abundance of good things. Walk round a market at this time of year and you can't help but be struck by the sheer beauty of the fruit and vegetables. Last week I came back from shopping with everything from a weighty marrow and freshly dug golden beetroot to fat heads of corn and ripe pears. There was fresh horseradish too, which I don't see often enough, even though it grows so easily.
With each passing year my cooking becomes vegetable-based. When I am thinking about what to cook for the week, it is the fruit and vegetables that come first and the rest of the meal, be it meat, fish or grains, falls into place around them. It is invariably the greens, roots and fruits that I tend to buy first, often before I have had a look at the meat and fish, which many regard as the hub of their meal.
I start on the vegetable stall and work out the rest later. If there are great greens then I know the next stop is for pork or bacon; if I come across beautiful carrots, swedes or turnips then I will start looking for a suitable cut of meat or fish to cook with them. They are the stars of my week's eating rather than the supporting actors. It might sound a radical way to plan a meal, but it makes sense, as the supply of fruit and vegetables is more variable and seasonal and is, at least to this cook, a better place to start.
Grilled sardines, beetroot and horseradish mash
Golden beetroot seem less sweet to me than the more common red varieties, but it could just be my imagination. Either is suitable for mashing. The heat of the fresh horseradish is pleasing with the sweet earthiness of the beets. Ready grated root is a possible alternative.
Serves 2
beetroot, golden or red 4
butter 50g
grated fresh horseradish 2 tbsp
sardines, boned and butterflied 4
Scrub, but do not peel the beetroot, then boil them whole in deep, lightly salted water for 30 minutes or so, depending on their size. They must be truly tender. Skin them, you should be able to slide it off with your thumb, then trim neatly before returning them to the pan and crushing with a potato masher. Beat in the butter with a wooden spoon, seasoning with salt and the grated horseradish.
While the beets are cooking, get a grill or griddle pan hot, then lightly oil the fish and cook for a few minutes on both sides till cooked – about 3 or 4 minutes on each side. Serve alongside the horseradish mash.
Tomatoes, charred onions and steak
Another use for the last of the tomatoes and a way of making a single steak go a long way. I sometimes serve this with a baked potato.
Serves 2-3
butter 60g
rump steak 450g
thick spring onions or salad onions 3
tomatoes, assorted sizes and varieties, 650g
Melt the butter in a shallow pan and season the steak with salt and black pepper. When the butter is sizzling, brown the meat on both sides, remove and set aside. Cut the onions in half lengthways and add them to the pan.
Halve the larger tomatoes, then add them all to the pan, covering them with a lid and letting them cook for 10 minutes or so till soft and lightly browned here and there. Season them generously, pressing them lightly with a spoon so their juices run into the pan.
Slice the steak thickly, then tuck the pieces among the softening tomatoes. Continue cooking briefly, then serve.
Marrow with tomatoes and basil
There was a temptation to include garlic in this, there often is when tomatoes and basil are involved, but on reflection I am not sure you need it. The flavours are fresher and more gentle without it. If you do decide to take the garlic route, then add a finely crushed clove to the mixture.
Serves 4
marrow 750g (unpeeled and seeded weight)
tomatoes 400g
olive oil 4 tbsp
basil leaves 12g
white vermouth or white wine 8 tbsp
Set the oven to 180C/gas mark 4. Cut four pieces of baking parchment approximately 30cm x 30cm.
Peel the marrow, halve it and discard the spongy core and seeds. Cut the flesh into cubes roughly 2cm square and put them in a large mixing bowl.
Roughly chop the tomatoes and add them to the marrow with the olive oil, lightly torn basil leaves and a grinding of salt and a little black pepper.
Divide the mixture between the sheets of baking parchment, then pull the side edges in to form a parcel, pouring a little of the vermouth into each before sealing. You can use a paperclip, clothes peg or simply fold and scrunch the edges together to seal, placing the parcels on to a baking sheet.
Bake for 30 minutes until the marrow is soft and translucent.
Sweetcorn, bacon and parsley salad
Raw sweetcorn, which I have used here, is less sugary than cooked and has a more satisfying crunch.
Serves 2
olive oil 3 tbsp
smoked streaky bacon 4 rashers
salted, roasted almonds 50g
sweetcorn a large head
parsley a handful
Warm the oil in a shallow pan, slice the bacon into long thin strips and fry in the oil till almost crisp. Add the almonds and cook for a minute or two.
Slice the kernels from the corn cob and stir them into the bacon. Mix briefly so the raw corn is coated with the bacon fat then toss with torn parsley leaves and serve immediately.
Baked pears with butterscotch sauce
Lots of butterscotch sauce here. I poured the extra I had left over some vanilla ice cream the following day.
Serves 6
pears, medium to large 6
lemon juice a little
double cream 500ml
light muscovado sugar 100g
vanilla extract 1 tsp
Set oven at 180C/gas mark 4. Peel the pears, keeping them whole, brushing them with lemon juice to stop them browning, then stand in a baking dish.
Put the cream and sugar in a non-stick milk pan, stir in the vanilla and bring to the boil; remove from heat. Pour over the pears then bake for about 40 minutes till tender. Serve one per person with butterscotch sauce.
